RAIN BY THE QUAI

A dappled swan in the Rhône river in lyon
Walking by the Rhône on a rainy day in Lyon

One of life's small pleasures is to take a walk in the rain.


Now, imagine you are walking a cobbled way, under bare branches, past grand buildings, all the while a river runs beside you. It is deep and swift, and the rain barely makes a mark on its granite surface.

You pass a group of tourists huddled under colourful umbrellas, learning about a hallowed statue of someone-or-other. An empty skate ramp lies to your left, one that on sunny days would be filled with teenagers and the clickety clack of wheels. Now all is silent with the rain. It drips off of twigs onto your hair and into your jacket if your hood is down. You neglected to wear a rain jacket - wool works just fine. 

You stop by your favourite patisserie, the one that makes those perfect tartes with the custard and the raspberries. Walking out with the paper bag, you know the perfect place to eat: in the awning of a closed cafe in the park, where the chairs are stacked ten high.  It is Sunday. Doves are cooing in the alcoves.

Back on the cobbled path, the rain glistens on red berries and pools in the cusp of the flowers, gathering in puddles under foot. A child on a small tricycle passes you, and splashes through the water with a ssshing sound as the tires pick up the thin veil from the ground. Further on, a bevy of swans parade down river. And there is some kind of impeccable joy radiating from within you, to be outside in the rain. It is the joy of solitude, that smells like winter, and that feels like a warm glow within.

Later you will go indoors and your face will defrost, your hands too, and you will wonder how you ever went outdoors in such weather. But for this moment, you can live with the rain.

A rainy day in Lyon, France
A tour group with colourful umbrellas in the rain in Lyon
Roses in the rain, Lyon, France
Bridge over the Rhône with carved figures
French flag on a bateaux in the Rhône river.
Bateaux on the Rhône river in Lyon
Dinghy tied to a large boat on the river in Lyon.

MY FAVOURITE PLACE IN LYON

Sitting on a cold stone wall, legs dangling between a metal trellis, and looking out over the river, the city and the great cathedral on the hill. That was my favourite place to be in Lyon. 

The hidden gardens in a nunnery came at a close second, but nothing could beat that view from my spot up in the Croix Rousse. I would go there on sunny days to eat my stash of macarons and write in my diary. And I would go there on sombre, moody-cloud days to simply sit and think about the world.


GAINING PERSPECTIVE

I am convinced that a great view will give a person some perspective on life. Up in the air, looking down on the world, we can feel detached from the ordinary worries that plague us as we roam the streets. What to buy for dinner, what this or that person said the other day. All those things are now unimportant, they have shrunken into miniscule perspective. Along with this, we can gain a sense of our own importance within this world. Just look out at that view - what can you see? Maybe hundreds or thousands of people, other souls in their search for happiness. We are not alone. Or maybe you can see the world as it truly is: a vast expanse of beauty and wonder, stretched out before you. Hills, lakes, oceans, sunsets. Miraculous, is it not? We are just a part of that larger whole. Or maybe, if you really set your mind to it, you can feel the ebb and flow of the whole universe, on those outer bounds of space. You feel yourself as a tiny speck in a great moving system. This is the moment I search for: that realisation, when all your thoughts become mere drifts of fluff in the phenomenal sea of life. Every little thought is washed away and your brain can float a while in a clear stillness. Like a silence. 


Yes, that one stone fence was certainly my favourite place in all of Lyon, for there, I could see clearly. 

The view of Lyon from the Croix Rousse
The view of Fourvière from the Croix Rousse in Lyon
Fourvière lit up at dusk in Lyon

THE BEAUTY OF LYON

Lyon - the view from Fourvière 
 

I always struggled with Lyon.

Looking back on those six months, it is a lot easier to gloss over the ugly memories... the dirty streets, the giant sewer rats, the grotesque mistreatment of the homeless. 

Now, it is easy to remember the Lyon of ferris wheels, and friends, and hidden gardens. 

But at the time, I had to live in between the two extremes: high culture and filthy squalor. I must admit, it was difficult at times to find the silver lining on the dark cloud of Lyon, as a mixture of culture shock, home-sickness, and bad experiences threatened to overwhelm me. 

Yet, as I neared the end of my study-abroad exchange, I began to realise this:

that whatever I thought of it at the time, I was going to be nostalgic afterwards, and I might as well bloody enjoy myself when I was actually physically there.

That was a true revelation, cutting through the mist of culture shock like a knife, and forcing me to live as if Lyon was my own home.

From then on, I lived in the moment. I embraced each part of that city, and one day, when I was wandering freely among the rubble of the old Roman amphitheatre, I was invited to join an improvisational singing group in their rehearsals. After the rehearsal, I was approached by a girl, who told me in her broken French and English that she greatly admired my ability to join in, and my bravery. It was then that I realised it was only ever me holding myself back from being truly happy in this new place; from belonging. Now, though, I feel like I could belong anywhere - that I could just jump right in and join any chorus of voices! 


Lyon was a learning moment for me, a stretching and growing moment. I remember both the good and the bad, but I focus on that which was beautiful.


Viuex Lyon square outside the Eglise St Jean
Pastry of cream and raspberries in Lyon, France
Fleurs - flowers at a market in Lyon
Hôtel de Ville gold accents on a mansard roof, Lyon 
The ceiling of Fourvière, Lyon
Lyon architecture
Pastel houses of Lyon along the riverside
Place Antonin Gourju Lyon - figure of a saint on the wall
Trompe l'oeil wall of bookshelves in Lyon, France
The river Saône in Lyon with clouds reflecting on the water
The rivers and bridges of Lyon.