BEAUTIFUL BEAUVAIS

Beautiful old houses in Beauvais

THE MIRROR

OF


LITERATURE, AMUSEMENT, AND INSTRUCTION

 

No. 770  |  SATURDAY, APRIL 2, 1836  | PRICE 2d.

Beauvais is an extensive city: the streets are wide; the houses are built of wood, and presenting their gables to the street, they give to the place a picturesque irregularity.

Beauvais is of some consideration among the manufacturing towns of France. It has a royal manufactory of carpets, established by Colbert in 1664. These carpets are nearly equal in quality to those of Gobelins, and fetch a high price.

The finest public building is the cathedral, of enriched Gothic architecture. This edifice is, however, imperfect, having neither nave nor steeple. But the choir, from its boldness and fine proportions, is superb: it even appears more lofty than that of Amiens, though actually not so.

SMALL WONDERS IN BEAUVAIS

 

The creaky old stairs in the hotel.
The wide avenues lined with purple-rose covered trellises, where once there was a medieval fortified wall. 
The river running through the town; each one a small branch of the Thérain: a source of water for the mills that were once used to weave linens and carpets.
A church garden full of twittering birds.
The smiles of the people I pass, out promenading. This, more than anything, gave Beauvais a village-feel, as inner city smiles are rare in France.
Spending time making daisy-chain-crowns on a verdant lawn.
And everywhere there were small houses - with shuttered windows and wooden beams showing, in the Maison Paysannes style.

 

However beautiful the town of Beauvais was, it was nothing compared to the breathtaking beauty of its Cathedral. And this is what I had come for...


Old French garden of roses in a churchyard in Beauvais
Easter eggs - blown and painted, in the window of an old house in Beauvais
Old relocated traditionally rustic house in Beauvais centre
Beautiful old houses - timber frames painted in colours, in Beauvais, France
Old houses in timber framed rustic style - Beauvais
Purple roses in a French garden in Beauvais

BEAUVAIS CATHEDRAL


Beauvais Cathedral after restoration

The Cathedral of Beauvais drew me out of Lyon, like a moth to a flame. I had only ever studied it on paper; in the pages of dusty books, full of 19th century illustrations. Actually standing beneath my subject of study - one of the tallest and most intricately detailed Gothic cathedrals of the Middle Ages, I felt a little teary-eyed. 


EXCERPTS FROM MY RESEARCH PAPER, 2013

In France, a competitive environment pressured the medieval cathedrals of the nation to new heights.

Notre-Dame's then 'outrageous' height of 33 meters was quickly surpassed by Chartres at 34 meters in the early thirteenth-century; Bourges at 37 meters in the mid century, and Amiens at 42 meters near the end of the century. It was this competitive environment that pushed Beauvais into the stratosphere, with the inner height of the nave reaching 47 meters.

Cathedrals were not only in competition with one another, but were also competing with the surrounding town. The urban boom of the middle-ages resulted in the doubling of populations between the years 1000 and 1328, with at least two-thirds of the growth situated in urban areas. The cathedrals of France, often set in the midst of the town, were in danger of being marginalized. Thus, the new soaring superstructures were meant to dominate the encroaching cityscapes. Beauvais itself was allotted only a small plot of land, and, being situated in a geographical basin, it rises to the sight of pilgrim walkers only thanks to its immense height. In contrast, English cathedrals - which display nothing of the French propensities for height - were often situated a little outside the town as they had a more monastic function. 

Moreover, the literal height of each French cathedral was then embellished upon, and visually extended using the architectural features therein. By running shafts up the piers, and the intimately connecting these with the shafts in the vault, the desired effect of an uninterrupted vertical line could be achieved. For example, in Beauvais Cathedral, the vertical tracery cage connects both the triforium and the clerestory above. These vertical shafts are also joined by the pointed arches, the piers and the arcades, all working together to draw the eye upwards.

By emphasising a cathedral's height and vertical lines, French masons wished to lift the viewer's eyes and mind to the heavens. Such motivations are directly laid out in the diary of Abbot Suger of St Denis, during his construction of what many now call 'the first truly Gothic church.' Lifted by the beauty of the decoration, to somewhere around the eaves, Abbot Suger could find himself in another region or plane of existence that was between this earth and the glories of heaven. Many others have also described such metaphysical feelings upon entering a Gothic cathedral. 

RISING ABOVE ALL OTHERS

Beauvais cathedral took the French proclivity for height to its ultimate peak - the interior could easily house the Statue of Liberty within its 47 meters of glass and stone and air.

When visiting Beauvais in 1837, Benjamin Winkles described the intense feelings of a visitor upon entering the space. The first impression seems 'truly magical,' yet the second brings on a sense of danger, as one realises the true immensity of the exaggerated height. Stephen Murray elaborates on that feeling, saying:

The central vessel of the church is an inverted chasm; the beholder is drawn upward with a feeling of near vertigo.

One would not be wrong, to sense danger in the heights of the roof, as Beauvais Cathedral has been subject to two major structural disasters, and is now being held up with extensive supports. Yet, these do not detract from the sheer wonder of the building.

 

The entire paper, with footnotes, can be found HERE. 

Stained glass in Beauvais
Inside the transept of Beauvais amazingly tall cathedral!
Beauvais Cathedral being held up by beams of wood because the vaults are too high
Shadow and light from the windows of Beauvais - shadows on the floor tiles
Floor tiles and flowers in Beauvais Cathedral
Lighting a candle in the dark of Beauvais cathedral
Old working medieval clock with moving parts in Beauvais Cathedral
Thus sometimes when, because of my delight in the beauty of the house of God, the multicolor loveliness of the gems has called me away from external cares, and worthy meditation, transporting me from material to immaterial things, has persuaded me to examine the diversity of holy virtues, then I seem to see myself existing on some level, as it were, beyond our earthly one, neither completely in the slime of earth nor completely in the purity of heaven. By the gift of God I can be transported in an anagogical manner from this inferior level to that superior one.
— ABBOT SUGER OF ST DENIS - c. 1144

AMUSE-BOUCHE

Escargot at La Table Anna, Reims

ANNA S.

LA TABLE AMOUREUSE



An amuse bouche at La Table Anna, Reims
A palate cleanser at La Table Anna

 

- JUNE 4TH 2014 -

A TRANSCRIPTION OF THE BEST MEAL OF MY LIFE { TO DATE }

 

The restaurant is slowly beginning to fill up for lunch, as French businessmen and women in grey suits come to drink fancy wine over plates of swordfish. The sound of fizzing champagne. The obligatory piles of french bread in wicker baskets on each table. The low murmurs of delight when a dish is brought out, and soft laughter all fill the air.
There is a waiter, for food, and it appears I also have a wine waiter too. He has some really great suggestions. I wonder how one gets such a specialised position.
My entrée arrives: snails cooked in small clay pots filled with parsley and garlicky butter, each one topped with an equally buttery round of toast. There and then, I eat my first ever snail...
Fishing it out of its burning-hot clay pot, I notice it has no shell, and thus it does not look particularly like a snail. Without thinking too far into it, though, I go ahead and try one. It tastes the way damp earth smells in a garden after the rain. The earthy flavour and the garlic butter mingle surprisingly well.
I have already eaten an amuse bouche, twelve buttery snails, and a small glass of raisin sorbet - a kind of palate cleanser - before the main course comes out. There is something so divine about a multi course meal, and, when paired with wine, I feel like I am seated in a concert hall, my mind moving through the various parts of a symphony. There is the anticipation before the beginning, the excitement at the first notes, the intense concentration on the composition, and then that feeling of losing focus and becoming utterly lost in the music. Or, in this case, lost in food.
I think I lost myself around the time of the main course. It is duck, with mushrooms and one single heirloom tomato. That tomato though... It is a revelation, all warm and bursting with flavour. The wine is going to my head. Inwardly, I sound like Chandler Bing from the tv series 'Friends': Oh. My. God.
But wait, there's more! I must have looked stunned just now as the waiter approaches with the cheese platter I greedily ordered. But what reads as a platter of fine cheeses on the menu, turns out to be a giant trolly of unlimited choices in real life. If the waiter thought my expression was comical, he should have seen the old French guy beside me, sitting with his wife. His eyes lit up and became all sparkly, before he realised the cheese selection was not for him. I have to go with my gut here, having no idea how to pick, I simply point at the ones that look most interesting. This tactic proves both a blessing and a curse, as I then experience the best and worst cheeses of my life. The best: a white 'Chaourse' that is so light and creamy it could be spun from moonbeams and butter. The worst (and here I should have trusted by better judgement) was an orange monster that tasted like toenails and the way damp basements smell. Well, each to their own, I guess.
Finalement, I choose a coffee from their extensive coffee menu. You know you are in the right place when they have a coffee menu.
There is that certain feeling of tummy-satisfaction that comes when one eats French bread, French cheese and drinks French wine. Mix that in with a good meal, and your tummy gets all warm and happy. Much like a hobbit might be after Elevenses. 
If the day had ended right there, I would have been utterly content, but my day was blessed further by the lovely conversation I struck up with the old French gentleman and his wife; a good twenty minutes of contemplation in the deserted church of St Remi during a thunderstorm; and a singly perfect glass of champagne in the limestone caves of Taittinger, underneath the city of Reims.
Later, running through the pelting rain, I felt not just contentment but complete bliss.

✩✩✩

 

Plate du jour, La Table Anna 
The cheese board - select four at La Table Anna
Dessert at La Table Anna
Coffee at the end of the meal, of course - very French. 
New friends met at the restaurant

The restaurant Anna S. can be found at:

6. Rue Gambetta, Reims, France.

REIMS

Reims Cathedral, seen from a distance, with flowers in the foreground

CLAIRSENTIENCE

noun | clair.sentience | ,kler"sen(t)SH(ē)ans

clair - to see + sentient - to feel | clairsentient - clear feeling.


The ability to perceive things strongly and clearly, including things others may not normally feel: others emotions, the energies of people, animals and plants, and possibly spirits.


Reims Cathedral has been called the epitome of Gothic architecture. 

The windows are centered like jewels in their casings; glinting royal blues and purples, deep magentas and fine spidery traces of green and ochre. Between all these windows, the walls of the church begin to give way and dissolve into light.

In the Gothic quest for height, this Cathedral was one of the tallest of its time. Inside, the ribbed vaulting and pointed arches are all vertically inclined, and every part of the edifice works to draw the eye upwards. And, oh, those pointed arches! An architectural marvel, after centuries of the limiting Romanesque rounded arch, the pointed arch dispersed the forces of gravity, allowing masons to perforate the walls with those enormous windows.

Reims Cathedral is a pumice-like creation of light and rock, reaching toward the heavens.

⚜♕⚜

 

What makes Reims even more captivating, in my mind, is the history that happened within.

Reims was the site of the baptism of Clovis, first King of the Franks - thus establishing a precedence at this cathedral for the divine unction and the coronation of kings. It was also here that Joan of Arc led Charles the Dauphine, through town after town that had been occupied by the English. And without bloodshed, each town was recaptured, until, at Reims, Charles was formally crowned king with Joan standing by.

When I first glimpsed Reims, my mind swirled with words I had read on paper: ambulatories, covered galleries, west portals, tympanums and arcades. Spires, traceries, masons, lead-workers and pilgrim-walkers.
The place seemed encrusted with time. Inside, I could almost hear the whisperings of a million prayers. It smelled of wax and candle wicks.
After admiring the rose windows, I walked between the isles. Then, rounding a corner, a strange feeling overcame me. Before me was a statue of a figure, as small as a child, and dressed like a boyish knight. The feeling became stronger, and tingled in my fingers - somehow I knew this figure. Somehow, this person, this place, was important, and the importance was lingering in the very air around me. Goosebumps. Stepping forward, it slowly dawned on me who the statue represented: Joan of Arc. From the backlogs of my memory, my mind whispered that, yes, Joan of Arc had been here. In fact, upon reading the sign, I learnt that this was the precise place where Joan had stood beside King Charles VII, during his coronation.
I had been called to Reims by the architecture alone, yet now I was utterly overwhelmed by the feeling that Joan's presence was, well... still present. Emotions bubbled up from some unknown source, and I kneeled in reverence and contemplation. 
I returned to that spot a few times before leaving Reims, and each time, I felt Joan there.


The Western Port and façade of Reims Cathedral
Windows and towers of Reims Cathedral in detail
Statue of Joan of Arc in a small chapel at Reims cathedral

JOAN D'ARC

&

CLAIRAUDIENCE


Joan of Arc mentioned her own powers of perception many times. She told friends, and even her inquisitors, of the voices she would hear - instructing her in life, in her mission to speak with the Dauphine, and in battle. Altogether, it is uncanny what Joan achieved before the age of nineteen. 

Joan accredited the voices she heard to St. Michael, St. Catherine and St. Margret. She would also see visions of light, and sometimes felt the presence of these saints. Notably, her first episode of clairaudience - a heightened ability to hear things - happened in her father's small garden. And, from this point on, Joan seems to have heard more clearly when she was surrounded by nature, in meadows, and in the woods. 

Tuesday, Feb 27, 1431. Fourth Session in the Trial of Joan d'Arc.

... Asked whether the voice which spoke to her was that of an angel, or of a saint, male or female, or straight from God, she answered that the voice was the voice of St. Catherine and St. Margaret. And their heads were crowned in a rich and precious fashion with beautiful crowns. 

Near Jeanne d’Arc’s home at Domremy there was a wood in which stood a beech-tree called the Ladies’ Tree, or the Fairies’ Tree, famous throughout the countryside. As a child, Jeanne used to hang on its branches garlands of leaves and flowers, and dance under it with the other children. A great deal was made of this by her inquisitors - dark things were said: the garlands vanished during the night, the birds in the oak-wood fed from her lap, the wolves there would not hurt Jeanne’s sheep. There was always the mystery of the voices, to which, when they had stupefied the child of another world and burned a saint, they were no nearer.

In the course of her long trial they asked her if she still heard her voices. Worn out with questions and learned subtleties, “Menez-moi dans un bois,” she said, “et je les entendrai bien.”

Lead me into the woods, she said. I will hear them well.
— Charlotte Mew - Men and Trees. 1913.
The smiling angel at Reims Cathedral
Shadows and light in Reims Cathedral - a perfect example of Gothic Architecture and the pointed arch.
Candles for prayer in the gloom of Reims Cathedral
The nave of Reims Cathedral
“The mystery of nature and life hovers about the columned temple of the forest. The secret is always behind a tree, as of old time it was always behind the pillar of the temple.”
— Charlotte Mew - Buckhurst Park. 1890.
Roses in Reims on a stone-walled house
Sketches of Reims cathedral - the West portal and door
Quick sketches of Reims cathedral  - the towers