LOST IN TUSCANY

Lost in the beauty of the Tuscan countryside - with rolling hills, old stone houses, and cypress trees.
 

BEING LOST


For a whole year, I lost myself.

Leaving the familiarity of home, to live overseas, was like stepping off the edge of my world into a vast, dark chasm, and telling myself it would all work-out in the end. There was no grounding underfoot, none of the usual stability; instead it was a stumble-off-the-path-of-my-own-life and fend-for-myself series of moments. 

I was lost, and yet, I found so much more of myself out there. Those parts of me that were waiting in the wilderness, to merge again with the whole, and show me who I could be. Who I am.

Sometimes I was so lost that I could distinguish where my self began and ended. Sitting on the parquet floor in a hotel room in Limoges, I tried to find some string that tied my own self to something, anything at all. Like Peter Pan, asking Wendy to sew his shadow back onto his feet. Being completely and utterly untied was one of the most difficult and weirdest feelings I have ever experienced. It was a hollow feeling, one that seemed to shrink me to some small point, stripping me back to almost nothing, as there was no reference to go from - nobody to see me or know me. Just a tiny being in a room with unlimited horizons. 


THE SCIENCE OF BEING LOST

In neurological studies, a person's inability to way-find is referred to as topographical disorientation, indicating that the feeling of being lost is mainly a spatial issue. Some researchers talk of an internal sense of direction, which can become a little muddled when one is spun around a few times, eyes closed, like a child at a piñata party. And yet, there is much more to the feeling of being lost than simple spatial disorientation, as many historians would point out. Take, for example, the exploration of America - a country 'discovered' many times over. Various intrepid explorers have made their way through these once unfamiliar lands, without ever losing themselves the way many people might dangerously lose themselves in a national park nowadays.

I was never lost in the woods once in my whole life, though once I was confused for three days.
— DANIEL BOONE - WOODSMAN 1734

Historian Aaron Sachs believes that these explorers found their way by 'reading' the landscape using various navigation tools as well as their intuition. Similarly, the native Wintu population of central California have a system of reading the landscape that is engendered in their language. The Wintu do not refer to a 'right' or 'left' arm or leg, instead they use the cardinal directions to centre themselves in space - 'west arm,' 'north leg.' In this way, their self is not divorced from the surrounding landscape, but is instead found within it. A self not separated from sky nor mountains...

THE ART OF BEING LOST

To lose oneself implies not just a misunderstanding of space, but also a loss of the 'self' - the identity we hold onto so tightly. In some ways, the two are inextricably linked, as an unfamiliar place forces a person to surrender to the moment - to cut all ties from the familiar, and reorientate their being to the present situation: to simply accept the unknown. It is this loss of self, this extension of our own boundaries into that unknown that pushes us. And thus arises the plethora of quotes about travel inducing a new perspective in people's lives.  

Many artists and novelists have pointed out that, by becoming lost, one may find a fuller version of oneself. In fact, the theme of the life-changing journey is one that has been touched on for millennia. Think: Homer's Odyssey. 

Rebecca Solnit posits that it is within the space of the unknown that we may find out more about ourselves. Scientists are like fishermen, she says, hauling-in uncertainties, caught in their nets, to inspect them in the light of day. However, it is the artists who are the true boatmen - ponting us out into that dark sea...

 

And what would we find out there?

Are we not searching, exploring perhaps, for those things unknown to us - a greater sense of compassion, for example?

Sometimes, I would think about such things on my travels. 19,000 kms from home, I extended my boundaries and pushed myself so far beyond who I thought I was as a person. And sometimes I would laugh, because that person had been there all along, waiting like a bright spark inside of me.

 


Who are you, yourself and nameless?
— J. R. R. TOLKIEN - THE FELLOWSHIP OF THE RING
Streets of Montalcino hilltop Tuscan village

I often found myself actually physically lost in space. One such time was in a the countryside of Tuscany...

 

FINDING MYSELF IN THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE

We had been sitting poking at ants on the sidewalk for an hour before the bus showed up. It took us to Montalcino, a medieval-walled village set on a hilltop. 
I sat on the wall and poured myself into the map, charting a route from 'a' to 'b.' That 'b' was Pienza - another small hilltop village, an indeterminate distance from Montalcino. Oliver bided his time, eating lunch and walking with arms outstretched along the rocks. 
We started off uncertain, and ninety-percent carefree.
Below the village, we passed row upon row of grape-vines.
The air was hot and fresh, with a hint of kicked-up-dust and the smell of wild jasmine. 
It didn't take long to get lost, out there where the dirt lanes converged and then ran apart again like waterways along a dry tundra. After bending the map a little, and trying to situate our surroundings to the squiggly red and yellow lines on the page, we just simply let go of it all. 
Letting go of the plans for the day was difficult, but there was so much more to be had from being lost...
We found ourselves wandering, without a clue, between giant cypress trees, beside golden wheat fields, and past large fortresses. 
We stopped every now and again to climb a hill, or to talk with the grape-pickers, or taste the crab-apples growing on a small tree beside the path.
Then, parched from the Tuscan sun, and entering 'moses wandering through the desert' territory, we started to search for water. We found a hose, in a deserted monastery, under a tree buzzing with bees. We bypassed that water. Later, a lake, with milky blue waters, where we swam a little but did not drink. And finally, nearing the end of the day - a kindly old gentlemen who let us drink from the tap outside his house. 
The rain came on as we sat by a bus stop. We caught the last bus of the day, and then watched as the lightning rolled across the land.  
Rows of grape vines, roses, and the hilltop town of Montalcino, in Tuscany.
Map of Montalcino and Tuscany, and how we got lost.
Jasmine flowers in the Tuscan countryside
Vineyards of Tuscany - rows and rows of green grapes.
Tall cypress tree against the blue sky in Tuscany
Tuscan monastery in the middle of nowhere
A small blue lake in the middle of vineyards in Tuscany
A cup of real italian thick hot chocolate

It is a surprising and memorable, as well as valuable, experience to be lost in the woods anytime. Not till we are completely lost or turned round - for a man needs only to be turned round once with his eyes shut in this world to be lost, - do we appreciate the vastness and strangeness of nature. Not till we are lost, in other words, not till we have lost the familiar world, do we begin to find ourselves.
— HENRY DAVID THOREAU - WALDEN

FLORENCE

View over Florence from the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore Duomo
Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore façade, Florence

HUMANIST PHILOSOPHY

&
INSPIRED INVENTION


First I prepared a tube of lead, at the ends I fitted two glass lenses, both plane on one side while on the other side one was spherically convex and the other concave. Then placing my eye near the concave lens I perceived objects satisfactorily large and near, for they appeared three times closer and nine times larger than when seen with the naked eye alone. Next, I constructed another one, more accurate, which represented objects as enlarged more than sixty times. Finally, sparing neither labour nor expense, I succeeded in constructing for myself so excellent an instrument that objects seen by means of it appeared nearly one thousand times larger and over thirty times closer than when regarded with our natural vision.
— GALILEO GALILEI

Florence during the Renaissance:
an inspired city. 

While Galileo spent his time looking upwards and outwards, into our universe, other Florentine-based inventors were busy scribbling away in books lined with thick parchment, making notations about the nature of our own world, and everything that lives upon it. Take, for example, Leonardo Da Vinci, who would write about anything from the fading blue tones of light towards the horizon; to the inner workings of the human eye. Another inventor, Brunelleschi, worked tirelessly to create his vision of a domed church larger and more complex than any other structure in Europe. And then there were others - humanist philosophers, who copied and reworked the ancient texts of Greece and Rome, and the guilds and workshops composed of artists who worked miracles in marble and paint. The combined energies emerging in Renaissance Florence inspired them all, as if each artist and each philosopher were a note in a symphony of immense proportions that soared above all other music that had come before. 

 
Ponte Vecchio, Florence 
 

FLORENCE THROUGH A SPY-GLASS

 

I spy... A bridge on which medieval houses teeter precariously.
I spy...A covered market, and chocolate. And wine. And cheese. And cured meats. And all other kinds of earthly goodness.
I spy... Vespas and bike baskets full of fresh flowers.
I spy... A small cart selling lampredotto - spicy tripe sandwiches dripping with broth.
I spy... The most beautiful walls, every inch covered in frescoed detailing.
I spy... A Botticelli painting on a wall in a street where no-one will see it - covered by a pane of dirty glass. A treasure to be discovered by the few who may look closely.
I spy... A convent garden, and a museum of masterpieces so beatific that they make my heart melt.
I spy.. An angel, with gold dusted wings of multi-coloured hue, painted by the hand of one Fra Angelico.
I spy... Reams of thick creamy paper, some marbled with paints, and tied with red ribbon into scrolls, set beside shelves of coloured writing inks. 
I spy... Relics of the old world - maps and globes detailing the world as they once saw it, complete with sea-monsters.
I spy... A museum of thin, fluted-glass thermometers and one domed pedestal holding a finger that belonged to Galileo himself. An odd thing to see, yes. Not something one wants to view after lunch.
I spy... An architectural marvel - a dome so large it seems impossible, weightless. And a view from the top that reveals all the gorgeous green of the lands beyond.
 
Old buildings in Florence
Old lady looking very fashionable in Florence
Vestri chocolates, Florence
San Marco convent Florence gardens
Annunciation angel painted by Fra Angelico, in San Marco convent, Florence
Monks cells painted by Fra Angelico in San Marco convent, Florence
Illuminated scripts in San Marco convent, Florence
Piazza San Marco
Quills and lovely thick papers being sold at a papeterie in Florence
Inks in all different colours sold at a papeterie in Florence
Museo Galileo medieval globes of the world
Museo Galileo medieval maps with monsters
Views over Florence from Santa Maria del Fiore duomo
Looking out over Florence 
If you could see the earth illuminated when you were in a place as dark as night, it would look to you more splendid than the moon.
— GALILEO GALILIE - SALVIATE

PIZZA

Pizza from L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele
L'Antica Pizzeria box

AN OFFER YOU CANNOT REFUSE

The best pizzeria in the world is run by the Italian Mafia. I am sure of it. 

The head honcho, an ancient white-haired Italian with watery blue eyes, sits at the front desk and smiles knowingly at me. When I ask him whether I should take a ticket with a number, he only nods and gestures towards the young men shoveling pizza in and out of a hot hole. He is definitely Mafia material. Do you take card? He shakes his head, still smiling. Cash only then? Uh-huh. Mafia. 

This pizza place may be a perfect reflection of the city in which it hides - Naples: dirty and rude, like a child who has wronged you, and instead of apologising, pulls the fingers at you and laughs. The streets of Naples seem to erupt here and there in splashes of torn-up cobblestones. The pizzeria itself is a scene of chaos. Fight your way through people and dogs to pick up a numbered ticket, and wait until your number is yelled out at the street; or order to-go and stand by the blazing hot furnaces.

But boy, is the product of that chaos a beautiful one! There is one type of pizza served here: Margarita. And you can get it with either one helping of cheese, or two. The pizza base is doughy, salty, and a little fire-charred around the edges. The sauce, a family recipe, leaks olive-oily goodness all over the cardboard box, and smells divine, scattered with blobs of mozzarella. But the best part? The way the small sprigs of basil in the middle of the pizza permeate the whole with an intense flavour.

Ah Naples, where pizza is king, and one can yell into the phone while driving one-handed between un-laned traffic. 

 

If you want to try some of the best pizza on earth,
head to L'ANTICA PIZZERIA DA MICHELE