CESKY KRUMLOV

Svornosti Town Square, with colourful old buildings, in Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic.

It is the year 1253, and on the banks of the Vltava river, that same snaking water that winds its way through the heart of Prague, a castle is taking shape. 

The castle is situated on a swarth of green meadow, caught between a twisted loop in the river - a natural embodiment of security from the thieving bandits around-abouts. 

Where there is a castle, there grows a town. Around the walls, people flock to find work, patronage for their art, or markets for their livestock. And so the town of Cesky Krumlov was born - named after the curved meadow on which it sat. 


WONDERS OF A MEDIEVAL TOWN

Terracotta roofs, huddled close to one-another.
River-rafters braving the rapids; Oliver and I, watching the spectacle from a bridge above.
Small shops selling dusty books in unknown languages, traditional spiced cookies, and barrels of mead.
The dark-doorways of the bars, and the promise of a cold draught beer for the price of a smile.
Walls covered in Renaissance style sgraffito and painted illusions: bricks, stones, florescues and curlicues. 
A moment spent sitting on the wall of a park, watching children play a game of piggy-in-the-middle below my feet in a private garden.
During the sun's pinnacle ascent, the crowds in the old town became too much. This was the perfect time to find a tea-room, and rest a while on pillows under the shade, drinking teas infused with rose waters, coconut flakes, and exotic flowers that bloom when hot water is poured on them.
Winding streets, alcoves and arches - the ideal setting for a promenade of hand-holders.
A market-place in a medieval courtyard, stalls piled with wooden spoons and blown glass.
A meal in a dark hovel of a place, the pork knee cooked upon an open fire. 
The sheer mystery of it all... All the while, I was trying to peer behind the screen of façades, to learn of the once-beating heart that was this medieval town.
Cesky Krumlov castle square and tower - painted in many pastel colours.
Houses and small lanes in the medieval heart of Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic.
A view of the castle from an old lane, Cesky Krumlov.
Cesky Krumlov market in an old courtyard
Cesky Krumlov arches for the road in the old town - orange buildings.
Spiced biscuits sold in the old town of Cesky Krumlov
Pilsner Urquell pub sign in Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
A pot of oriental tea at a tea-house in Cesky Krumlov.
Castle Tower Cesky Krumlov - in the midday sun.
Cesky Krumlov, the little jewel box of a city in southern Bohemia.
— LAINI TAYLOR

LET'S BE INTREPID

The mountains of Austria near Werfen.

CURIOSITY

OVER MOUNTAIN AND UNDER MOUNTAIN

Curiously enough, the only thing that went through the mind of the bowl of petunias as it fell was Oh no, not again. Many people have speculated that if they knew exactly why the bowl of petunias had thought that we would know a lot more about the nature of the Universe than we do now.
— DOUGLAS ADAMS - HITCHIKER'S GUIDE TO THE GALAXY

Standing a meter and sixty centimeters above the soil, I am able to survey a wide range - my sight moves beyond the immediate. 

Some scientists have pointed to our height, in an effort to explain our natural curiosity as humans. Because we see further, we wish to go further. Others point to the inner workings of our brains. Whatever the cause, humans have always been an intrepid bunch; crossing ice bridges, venturing to the outer extremes of our planet - those rivers, glaciers, poles, mountains and seas. We explore the inner world too, the world of cells and atoms, the world of the mind and the psyche. We are naturally curious. 

Climbing a mountain trail near Werfen, Austria- being intrepid.
Mountains and birds and sky.
Oliver on a sketchy mountain trail, in a silhouette
Ice caves Eisriesenwelt near Werfen in Austria - the entrance to the caves in the mountains
Eisriesenwelt ice caves - blue ice under the mountains of Austria.
Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.
— T. S. ELIOT

THE SOUND OF MUSIC

The House from the Sound of Music, in Salzburg

DÉJÀ VU

A threadbare carpet, the warp and weft touching my knees where I sat, cross-legged. A television flickering - one of those with the bulbous screens and the small dials which remind one of a toaster oven. The trilling sounds of Julie Andrews, singing about confidence, and the smell of marmite, spread thin with butter over a rice thin. These are memories that come to me when I think of my childhood. 

Another memory: me, sat beside my brother in a small van that seemed as if it was made of tin, the seat-belt too large. I always tucked the seatbelt under my arm, you see. And I was talking...no, wait, I was singing. After telling my brother that I could sing any song in reverse, I proceeded to belt out 'Do Re Mi.' Or more precisely: 'Do Ti La'. 

 

It went a little something like this:

Do Ti La So Fa Me Re Do

 

I cannot count the number of times I have watched the Sound of Music. Before I could ever understand the complexities of politics, or of a love the bridges societal classes, I knew all the words to each and every song of that movie. The world of Julie Andrews seemed far away - merging with my memories of Switzerland and Austria from a visit at age six. It was not until I visited Salzburg, many years after, that the reality sunk in: the reality that once upon a time Julie Andrews really did skip down that lane singing about confidence; and that a family really was forced to escape their own country, weaving their way through the high alps. 

On top of this, I encountered an eery feeling while walking through Salzburg. It felt a little too familiar at times, as if I had lived there before - had passed by that fountain a hundred times, and nodded hello to the equestrian statue, and had biked round the lapping edge of the lake. It was a strange sense of déjà vu to stand inside a small church where I have never stood, but to recognise the iron filigree of the gates that opened on the outside world.

Place where Maria looks over Salzburg in the Sound of Music.
The lane where Maria sings about confidence!
The gazebo from Sound of Music's 'Sixteen Going on Seventeen'.
The lake where the children fall in, the Sound of Music.
The Do Re Mi garden from the Sound of Music, in Salzburg.
Fountain from the Sound of Music.
I go to the hills when I am lonely
I know I will hear what I’ve heard before
My heart will be blessed with the sound of music
And I’ll sing once more
— MARIA - THE HILLS ARE ALIVE