MULTNOMAH FALLS

multnomah-falls

SPIRIT OF THE FALLS

<<— A WASCO LEGEND —>>


Through clouds of mist and pine pollen,
with wind whistling at your teeth,
stinging half lidded eyes,
you can see her, veiled in white…

<<|>>

Many years ago the head chief of the Multnomah people had a beautiful young daughter. She was especially dear to her father because he had lost all his sons in fighting, and he was now a old man. He chose her husband with great care, a young chief from his neighbors, the Clatsop people. To the wedding feast came many people from tribes along the lower Columbia and south of it.

The wedding feast was to last for several days. There were swimming races and canoe races on the river. There would be bow-and-arrow contests, horse racing, dancing, and feasting. The whole crowd was merry, for both the maiden and the young warrior were loved by their people.

But without warning the happiness changed to sorrow. A sickness came over the village. Children and young people were the first victims, then strong men became ill and died in only one day. The wailing of the women was heard throughout the Multnomah village and the camps of the guests.

“The Great Spirit is angry with us,” the people said to each other. The head chief called together his old men and his warriors for counsel and asked gravely,” What can we do to soften the Great Spirits wrath?”

Only silence followed his question. At last one of the old medicine men arose.” There is nothing we can do. If it is the will of the Great Spirit that we die, then we must meet our death like brave men. The Multnomah have ever been a brave people.”

The other members of the council nodded in agreement, all except one, the oldest medicine man. He had not attended the wedding feast and games, but he had come in from the mountains when he was called by the chief. He rose and, leaning on his stick, spoke to the council. His voice was low and feeble.

“I am a very old man, my friends, I have lived a long, long time. Now you will know why. I will tell you a secret my father told me. He was a great medicine man of the Multnomah, many summers and many snows in the past.

When he was an old man, he told me that when I became old, the Great Spirit would send a sickness upon our people. All would die, he said, unless a sacrifice was made to the Great Spirit. Some pure and innocent maiden of the tribe, the daughter of a chief, must willingly give her life for her people. Alone, she must go to a high cliff above Big River and throw herself upon the rocks below. If she does this, the sickness will leave us at once.”

Then the old man said,”I have finished, my fathers secret is told. Now I can die in peace.”

Not a word was spoken as the medicine man sat down. At last the chief lifted his head. “Let us call in all the maidens whose fathers or grandfathers have been headmen.”

Soon a dozen girls stood before him, among them his own loved daughter. The chief told them what the old medicine man had said. “I think his words are words of truth,” he added.

Then he turned to his medicine men and his warriors, “Tell our people to meet death bravely. No maiden shall be asked to sacrifice herself. The meeting has ended.”

The sickness stayed in the village, and many more people died. The daughter of the head chief sometimes wondered if she should be the one to give her life to the Great Spirit. But she loved the young warrior, she wanted to live.

A few days later she saw the sickness on the face of her lover. Now she knew what she must do. She cooled his hot face, cared for him tenderly, and left a bowl of water by his bedside. Then she slipped away alone, without a word to anyone.

All night and all the next day she followed the trail to the great river. At sunset she reached the edge of a cliff overlooking the water. She stood there in silence for a few moments, looking at the jagged rocks far below. Then she turned her face toward the sky and lifted up her arms. She spoke aloud to the Great Spirit.

“You are angry with my people. Will you make the sickness pass away if I give you my life? Only love and peace and purity are in my heart. If you will accept me as a sacrifice for my people, let some token hang in the sky. Let me know that my death will not be in vain and that the sickness will quickly pass.”

Just then she saw the moon coming up over the trees across the river. It was the token. She closed her eyes and jumped from the cliff.

Next morning, all the people who had expected to die that day arose from their beds well and strong. They were full of joy. Once more there was laughter in the village and in the camps of the guest.

Suddenly someone asked, “What caused the sickness to pass away? Did one of the maidens…?”

Once more the chief called the daughters and granddaughters of the headmen to come before him. This time one was missing.

The young Clatsop warrior hurried along the trail which leads to Big River. Other people followed. On the rocks below the high cliff they found the girl they all loved. There they buried her.

Then her father prayed to the Great Spirit, “Show us some token that my daughters spirit has been welcomed into the land of the spirits.”

Almost at once they heard the sound of water above. All the people looked up to the cliff. A stream of water, silvery white, was coming over the edge of the rock. It broke into floating mist and then fell at their feet. The stream continued to float down in a high and beautiful waterfall.

For many summers the white water has dropped from the cliff into the pool below. Sometimes in winter the spirit of the brave and beautiful maiden comes back to see the waterfall. Dressed in white, she stands among the trees at one side of Multnomah Falls. There she looks upon the place where she made her great sacrifice and thus saved her lover and her people from death.

~ excerpt from: “Indian Legends of the Pacific Northwest”
ed. by Ella Elizabeth Clark


multnomah-falls

PORTLAND

portland-starry-sky-mural

TRUSTING OUR UNDOING

- A LESSON -

This too shall pass.
— old Persian adage

There it was again. That same distant rattling sound, a low hum, and now something else joins it - a knocking at my feet. A death knell. Our little yellow van has some mystery illness. With every turn, the wheels under my feet are coughing, wheezing, rattling and thunking.

We stop, mid sentence, all plans for the day falling away. The next twenty minutes are spent driving up and down a single shady, tree-lined street in a suburban area made up of powdery blue houses and charming marigold gardens. I must have looked a little mad, running alongside the van, ears down, trying to listen to the tires. Trying to decipher what was wrong - where it hurt. It became very clear that something was truly amiss. The front passenger-side tire was on its last legs. It seemed it was about to fall off at any second, the rattling was now more of a pounding and shaking.

So, with our hearts in our mouths, we limped our only home-on-the-road across two blocks to the nearest mechanic’s garage. There we found an angel in the form of a surly young man with an armful of swirling tattoos and grime under his fingernails. This guy would save our lives, and could do so cheaper and faster than any other place we had called. When we got there he didn’t mess around with setting up an appointment, didn’t tell us how much it would cost just to “have a look.” Instead he worked quickly, briskly, bruskly, lifted up our little van and went about his business. Within five minutes he was able to tell us what was wrong, affirming our worst fears…

The verdict: the van desperately needed a new wheel bearing.
Cost: $350, with labor.

Although we were incredibly fortunate to have found one of the cheapest mechanics around, $350 was still way outside of our budget. Heck, we had only $150 in our bank accounts! We had been living on a mix of road-trip magic, the last of our meagre savings, and the smaller earnings we were making from driving for Uber Eats in the cities we traveled through. This was not the first time I had felt the world was falling down around my ears, not the first time my best-laid plans had melted in front of my eyes. But it still hurt. A lot.

Yet, a strange sensation began to overcome me. Every adventure I have undertaken with Oliver has challenged and pushed me a little more than the last. Every crisis, every sudden change-of-plans, every breakdown, every meltdown… all of it has been a lesson in the act of trusting. I have learned, through even the most impossible of circumstances, that things will work out. That this too shall pass. And like a test of faith, this latest breakdown in my world gently illuminated just how much my attitude has shifted in the last 5 years…

After the initial shock, and that inevitable frank discussion of what this means for our road trip, I just let go. The familiar feeling of gripping anxiety falls away, my heart loosens, and I leap once again into the void of not-knowing. Unsurety feels like slipping and falling from a hard surface into nothingness, losing grasp of all roots, branches, anything that would hold me. Instead I allow myself to be cradled by the unseen. The unknown. The universe. In moments like these, I realise I have very little control. The only thing I can control is my own response.

We float in limbo, and there we find a strange, clear kind of joy. One that defies reason, relying not on the curation of one’s experience, but the beauty of the moment as it is offered up. Raw, honest, still stunningly beautiful. The world keeps spinning. I am just here observing.

We somehow ended up breaking down in the most beautiful little suburb, right down the street from a shop that makes heavenly tiny doughnuts; steaming hot, covered in caramel-y sugar and cinnamon, and served with spiced chai. This place feels like home after a day or two.

The van is parked on a side street, where pale purple chicory flowers grow from the cracks in the sidewalk. The long walk into town is punctuated with small wonders, sites worth stopping to take in…

A community garden, complete with rhubarb, potato flowers, and artichokes that glisten after last night’s rain.

An army of bicycles.

A giant mural of stars in a sky full of blue.

A complex of old mills, breweries, and industrial buildings with peeling painted logos. Several of these spaces have been turned into hip new cafes.

Crossing over a bridge that links the industrial quarter to the inner town. Overhead: thick, red, industrial iron beams and rivets. Underfoot: a swift, smooth running river. Ahead of me: Oliver stops for a moment to peer over the edge, then turns to me and grins.

Two tall glasses of craft beer, and a window for watching people.

A garden of roses in full bloom. My favorite: an enormous dusky pink rose, with full petals that beg to be touched, named Barbra Streisand. It reminds me of long-forgotten crushed velvet curtains, and the soft skin of a woman’s thighs.

A moment spent by a large fountain, watching a daughter make her father laugh by skipping and twirling through an ankle deep pool of water.

The bricks passing underfoot, as we walk and talk.

Running to escape the rain, and stepping through a tinkling door into another world - a maze of rooms and doors. Every surface is covered in books. We lose ourselves for a few hours.

A trip back in time, through dimly lit 1920s art deco halls, to find a cinema screen inside a painted Egyptian temple.

Ice cream that tastes like spun sugar rose petals, pickled plums, and a puff of smoke.

The feeling of walking out of the twinkling indoor lights, and out into a dark, warm summer night, still caught in a sparkling conversation.

The soft, deep, rich sounds of a saxophone, drifting through the dark. Walking hand in hand, without a plan or a clue about what will happen, totally free, totally blissful.



Every tear in the carefully woven fabric of our lives is a hole for the light to shine through.


keep-portland-weird
craft-beer-portland

PLACES WORTH CHECKING OUT
. . .

Pip’s Original Doughnuts and Chai… Best. Doughnuts. Ever!

The charming suburban homes and gardens of Rose City Park.

Cross over Broadway Bridge to find the old industrial buildings outside the city center.

International Rose Test Garden. Smell your heart out!

Stroll around the city center, and stumble across Keller Fountain Park.

Powell’s Books is the place to get lost on a rainy day.

McMenamin’s Bagdad Theater & Pub. A stunning art deco building, serving up craft beer and the latest films.

I will never forget the ice creams from Salt & Straw. As someone who likes strange new ice cream flavours, this was my idea of heaven!

Take an evening walk through the trendy, buzzing, boutique-laden area of Richmond. (Go for Salt & Straw, and stay for the saxophone players).


pips-original-donuts-portland
me-being-silly
portlandia-is-real
bee-friendly-garden-portland
pink-yarrow
portland-13.jpg
salt-and-straw-ice-cream
the-baghdad-theatre
the-baghdad-theatre
rose-test-garden-portland
rose-test-garden-portland

CRATER LAKE

crater-lake-park-snow-in-summer

SNOW IN SUMMER

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK

9 June 2018


⁂⁕↟↟↟⁕⁂

In the midst of a blistering heatwave summer
we stumbled across
this permanently frozen world

a crater of snow melt
laced with ice, pine and mist . . .
foggy spirits abound
whirling whisps that curl against the branches
of the trees
and lay languidly on the surface of the water
till in one bright moment
a ray of light peeks through and
the mists retreat to reveal
the gleaming sapphire pool!

❄❄❄

This shining gem in the hills was born of violence and destruction! An eruption of a magma chamber underground quickly collapsed the foundation of the mountain that once stood here. In a matter of hours a mountain turned into a crater. Those who witnessed this eruptive event, 7700 years ago, spoke afterwards of a great battle of the forces above and the forces below. Slowly, over time, the crater was filled with water… 44 inches of snowfall a year melted, over hundreds of years, and blossomed into a lake. A lake with no inlets, streams, or tributaries. A lake of snowflakes turned crystalline, blue to the very depths.

snowy-forest-road-crater-lake
crater-lake-blue-colour
crater-lake-wooden-cabins
snowy-pines-crater-lake
glimpse-lake-through-trees
crater-lake-visitor-center
crater-lake-national-park